That's right, I took some time off from working and griping about the general state of things to hop a train with my wife and little guy all the way east to PEI for a wedding (yes, the train only went to Moncton). I haven't been east of Kenora since I was 12 years old and went with my hockey team to Montreal on an east meets west cultural exchange. The idea was to meet and stay with kids from another city with a different culture to promote tolerance. It worked, we all discovered that 12 year old boys from Montreal and Winnipeg pretty much love hockey and fart jokes equally. We decided to take the train for 3 reasons, my 3 year old son is crazy about Thomas the Tank Engine, I love to support Crown corporations, and I hate being subjected to the kind of security environments that exist only in airports and Turkish prisons.
The first stretch from Winnipeg to Toronto was a 30+ hour affair made longer by the fact that we were repeatedly delayed waiting for CN freight trains, with whom we shared the tracks with, to pass by. This may have just been a matter of logistics or it may have been a case of freight over people, either way it was annoying. It probably would have bothered me less if it was still the Canadian National Railway and not the Illinois Globalism Oligarchy Express that it is today. The staff was mostly friendly and professional and even the food was decent. I would recommend going Sleeper Class, we were in Coach or "Comfort" Class, a name that Orwell would have appreciated. The seats were great for sitting but terrible for sleeping. It was also too cold most of the time, but having said that, overall the trip was pleasant. When we arrived in Toronto I was surprised to see the CPC's Jason Kenney. He was stalking around the baggage conveyor belt looking annoyed, impatient and self-important. I was just beginning to think how typical that was when I realized I had the same look on my own face. We all did, it was hot in there! We were a little late and tired and we had to fight our way through the traffic leaving the Blue Jays game, so we went to bed without seeing much of Toronto. In the morning we went to Tim Horton's like good, little, consumer Canadians. While sipping my coffee I noticed a homeless guy burning his fingers trying to light a tiny cigarette butt he had found. The homeless had recently been in the news in Toronto after some guy was allegedly stabbed by a couple of homeless kids. I decided to make my contribution to the debate. There was a little corner store beside the downtown Tim Horton's, I walked in and asked for a pack of Du Maurier King. I took the cigs outside and gave the whole pack to the homeless guy. Needless to say he was quite happy to have run into me. "I'm saving your life" he said, referring to the smokes and the cancer I wouldn't be getting. We both laughed, it felt good. I like to give money to homeless people, they do a tough job walking around being great, big, living, flashing neon signs that scream, "YOUR SYSTEM ISN'T WORKING, I'M PROOF. CAPITALISM SUCKS. THE RISING TIDE DIDN'T LIFT MY BOAT. I DON'T HAVE A FUCKING BOAT." Now I realize that mental illness and substance abuse are the culprits when it comes to many of these folks, but that doesn't change the fact that a civilized society would do something for them. As seems to be my habit, I digress. Before I could say, "Which way to the Hockey Hall of Fame?", we were back on the train and headed east.
Didn't get to see Montreal, nice train station, cool bridge. What's that, the St. Laurence? We got to Moncton, got our rental car and drove to the Confederation Bridge. The bridge is impressive to say the least and you should see it if you can. It's free to cross, but $40 to get back.
PEI is a jewel! We stayed near Cap Egmont in a cottage by the ocean. We ate fresh lobster for the first time, mussels and clam chowder, it was awesome! I drank like a teenager at my wife's cousin's wedding and I don't know if it was the detoxifying effect of the seafood or the sea air, but I didn't feel like going to sleep after 3 beers and I didn't get a hang-over. My wife went to Anne of Green Gables and I went golfing. We all did the North Cape Coastal Drive to see the wind farm and the wild seals. We also saw the school house where Stompin' Tom Connors went to school, it was cool. I love PEI. The people were easy-going and friendly, if a bit stand-offish at first. Cola still comes in a 750 mL glass bottle, it felt like the 70's. I guess when you live on an island you don't want to fill up your landfill with plastic bottles. They also have an excellent recycling program that includes composting. But they drive too slow! People run little enterprises right out of their yards everywhere. Car sales, car repairs, lobster traps for sale, homemade sheds, greenhouse veggies, and of course, fresh fish, lobster and potatoes. I hope that never changes in Prince Edward Island, but I have my doubts now that the bridge has allowed for Wal-Mart to come to town. My son had been very well behaved so we decided to purchase a small, portable DVD player for him to watch on the train. Of course I bought it at Wal-Mart (what a fuckin' hypocrite) and we were on our way home.
This time we had a little more time in Toronto so of course we went up the CN Tower. Holy fuck, that is trippy! What a view! People from the GTA are smirking if they are reading this, but I don't care, the CN Tower rocked. Go again if you haven't been in awhile. Back on the train and back home. The trip was well worth it and helps put some perspective on just how big and wild this country is. I couldn't find anyone who liked Stephen Harper, while the only Americans I met hated George Bush too. Eastern Canadians are more like Western Canadians than I expected.
Friday, August 31, 2007
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1 comment:
Glad to hear you enjoyed your trip to my home province.
Takes me back to the Island reading your excellent account of the charms of the Garden of the Gulf.
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